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초록· 키워드
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The basic research materials for Koguryo clothing culture are related articles in Korea and China, Koguryo tomb murals, Chinese grottoes, murals, paintings, murals of Koguryo people in Central Asian palace, line etchings on artifacts, and excavated remains of fabrics. To understand the periodic changes in Koguryo clothing and the surrounding socio-cultural elements, one needs to look at both documents and paintings from the murals. Of 46 figurative depictions in mural tombs, 411 persons are found in fourteen Jian tombs and 1,014 persons are found in 32 Pyeongyang and Anak tombs, totalling 1,425 persons.
Romance of Three Kingdoms show that characteristic fashion element of Jian region including Jeolpung, straight left-hand collar, circular patterns, and lined and plaited dresses were cultural tradition of Koguryo people in Jian and Hwanin regions from before the late third century. Chaek (a type of headgear) and patternless clothes with fastenings either ways are characteristic Pyeongyang clothes and is the result of the fusion between Pyeongyang indigenous culture and Han culture with Nakrang and Jian Koguryo influence.
In Nampo tomb murals from 4 to 5th century, both figures in chaek and jeolpung with robes fastened right or left with or without circular patters are found. Such mingling of Jian and Pyeongyang style can be called Nampo style. Nampo style is the result of Nampo’s functioning as the middle ground between two cultures. The coexistence of chaek and left fastening, circular patterns and patternless clothes can be found in Anak region and may be named Anak style. Anak style shows the process in Anak in which replacement rather than fusion took place.
As Koguryo’s international status became more established and people grew more national pride, twelve official ranks with Koguryo characteristics are established. The organization of official uniforms and headgear per rank was likely made at this time. Official headgear differentiated each rnak by material and ornament of jeolpung and came to be called golso or sogol. The example can be seen in the procession scene in Gaemachong. The mural also shows that Pyeongyang style patternless robes with free fastenings came to settle as basic garments around this period.
Romance of Three Kingdoms show that characteristic fashion element of Jian region including Jeolpung, straight left-hand collar, circular patterns, and lined and plaited dresses were cultural tradition of Koguryo people in Jian and Hwanin regions from before the late third century. Chaek (a type of headgear) and patternless clothes with fastenings either ways are characteristic Pyeongyang clothes and is the result of the fusion between Pyeongyang indigenous culture and Han culture with Nakrang and Jian Koguryo influence.
In Nampo tomb murals from 4 to 5th century, both figures in chaek and jeolpung with robes fastened right or left with or without circular patters are found. Such mingling of Jian and Pyeongyang style can be called Nampo style. Nampo style is the result of Nampo’s functioning as the middle ground between two cultures. The coexistence of chaek and left fastening, circular patterns and patternless clothes can be found in Anak region and may be named Anak style. Anak style shows the process in Anak in which replacement rather than fusion took place.
As Koguryo’s international status became more established and people grew more national pride, twelve official ranks with Koguryo characteristics are established. The organization of official uniforms and headgear per rank was likely made at this time. Official headgear differentiated each rnak by material and ornament of jeolpung and came to be called golso or sogol. The example can be seen in the procession scene in Gaemachong. The mural also shows that Pyeongyang style patternless robes with free fastenings came to settle as basic garments around this period.
목차
Ⅰ. 머리말
Ⅱ. 연구 자료
Ⅲ. 복식문화의 전개양상
Ⅳ. 맺음말
참고문헌
〈ABSTRACT〉
참고문헌 (118)
참고문헌 신청
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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2016-911-001947565