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자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제50권 제1호
발행연도
2000.1
수록면
5 - 22 (18page)

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The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style or fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century, one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping design and it adjusted easier than the flat pattern, the students who study costume and ones who work in apparel design think that the subject, draping design, is even more important than other subject. But there haven`t been the studies that analyzed the patterns of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of Hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front, Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can`t see the much differences, but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces, the upper part and lower part, besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that is similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern : There is partially a gored line in the skirt in Hourglass silhouette, however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt, t this part, we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others : We can find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar, flounce, wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourglass style for the most part.

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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2017-381-000760775