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[학술저널]

  • 학술저널

오숙경 홍나영

UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2017-381-000746988

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초록

This study is about Jongi-sim(Paper used for interlining) used in costumes of the Joseon Dynasty. Terms related to Jongi-sim include ``Anji(按紙)``, `` Soh(왣)`` and ``Gyeok(隔)``. Anji is a term that refers to Jongi-sim used on padded clothes. Soh refers to stiff and thick paper inserted between fabrics. Gyeok is predicted to be a term that refers to the use of paper as both interlining and lining. Chojuji(草注紙) was used for Jongi-sim in Cheolik, Aekjueum, Baji and Dae among kings and crown princes` ceremonial costumes. Chojuji and Jeojuji(楮注紙) were used in women`s royal costumes such as Jeogori, Hosu and Chima. Doryeonji(搗鍊紙) was used in Dae and Yangyieom. Gongsangji(供上紙) was used for the interlining or lining in Yangyieom. Excavated costumes that used Jongi-sim for the entire clothes are Cheolik and Jangjeogori. Jongi-sim placed in Git(collar) was sometimes placed together with cotton. Geodeulji of Jangot used paper in invisible parts as to replace fabric by paper. Danryeong and Dapho attached Jongi-sim to Mu, and stiff paper was inserted.

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