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자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
저널정보
한국복식학회 International Journal of Costume and Fashion International Journal of Costume and Fashion Vol.13 No.2
발행연도
수록면
1 - 13 (13page)
DOI
10.7233/ijcf.2013.13.2.001

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초록· 키워드

We studied the meaning of the term avant-garde in relation to clothing of the 1980s and 1990s by examining the media`s perceptions of Martin Margiela, a Belgian deconstructionist designer who was often labeled as avant-garde by journalists, scholars, and fashion critics in the late 20th century. A five-step content analysis method described by Paoletti (1982) was used to conduct the research. Newspaper and magazine articles in the 1980s and 1990s were analyzed using a set of existing avant-garde characteristics developed by Crane (1987) to determine if those journalists` perceptions matched the characteristics described by Crane. Results indicated that the journalists` critiques and descriptions matched the avant-garde characteristics described by Crane (1987). Including a subjective element to the conceptualization of the term explains how journalists described Margiela`s designs despite Japanese designers` use of similar techniques before him. We (re) conceptualize the term`s latter 20th century meaning and shifting dialogue to include a subjective element.
#avant-garde #content analysis #fashion #Martin Margiela
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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2017-381-000739416