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논문 기본 정보

자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
(성균관대학교) (성균관대학교)
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제69권 제7호(통권 제222호)
발행연도
수록면
18 - 33 (16page)
DOI
10.7233/jksc.2019.69.7.018

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초록· 키워드

The current study aims to summarize the symbolism of the Hakchangui and its features based on the portraits of Jang Man and references published on the Joseon Dynasty and establish criteria to classify 17th-century Hakchangui and 18th-century Hakchangui. The results of this study are categorized into five groups. First, the Confucian clothing portraits by Jang Man depicted people holding portable fans with white feathers while wearing Hakchangui and represented Jang Man, who opposed the uprising of Igwal by riding on a carriage like Zhuge Liang. According to portraits and collections of poetry published during the Joseon Dynasty, portable fans with white feathers and Hakchangui served as the representative clothing of Zhuge Liang, hermits, and scholars who observed Taoism. Second, Chinese collars featured an opposite collar shape. The method for fastening a Hakchangui is to bind it with a single strand of beads. Third, Joseon Hakchanguis" collars made in the 17th century can be recognized by their Y shape and reversed collar that converges in the center. Considering the method of connecting collars by lines, it can be observed that the lines on the collar section and both left and right lines on the front are connected as shown in the Joseon Hakchangui. Generally, Hakchanguis were fastened by tying them with small strings and using a single bead to secure them. Fourth, Joseon Hakchanguis made in the 18th century are assumed to have changed to the square-shaped Bangryeong Hakchangui through the influence of Chinese collars. After bead-type buttons and knotted buttons were interchangeably used between the late 17th century and the early 18th century, it is believed that knotted buttons were adopted in some cases. Fifth, the wearing of belts between the 17th and 18th century depended on the formality of a given situation. A variety of official hats including Yoongeon(輪巾), Danggeon(唐巾), and Hwangyanggeon(華陽巾) were also worn.
#Baeguseon(백우선) #Geumlyongseon(금룡선) #Hakchangui(학창의) #Jang Man(장만) #Ya-Bok(야복)
상세정보 수정요청해당 페이지 내 제목·저자·목차·페이지
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목차

  1. ABSTRACT
  2. Ⅰ. 서언
  3. Ⅱ. 장만의 초상화
  4. Ⅲ. 유복본 초상화에 그려진 장만의 의복
  5. Ⅳ. 17-18세기 학창의(鶴氅衣)
  6. Ⅴ. 결언
  7. References

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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2020-381-000133626