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초록· 키워드
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The noble class’s clothing of Yuan(元) in 13’th~14’th centuries became impressive style because of plenty goods and hue trade port. Mongolian ladies' costume in high society was selected as a women’s costume of Chinese first class instead of clothing of Han race ladies, and fashion style of Yuan’s high class ladies can be divided two as follows.
First, long narrow deel and high Boktak in nomadic style of Mongolian ladies were developed as a ‘heavy grand ceremonial dress’ with accomplished skill of fabric and many jewel stones. The most important material was nascici- brocade with heavy golden thread made by masters from central Asia, and various imported big pearls and jewels as tax. Tastes of Master and merchant from Persia, Uigur, Han-chinese race, another Central asia were reflected in the design of Yuan women’s ceremonial dress.
Second, ‘tender costume of un-nomadic women’- light jacket and long skirt, thin narrow women’s shoes - were worn as daily formal wear of court ladies. It seems that these clothing were affected by the ladie’s costume of south Han tribe and Goryeo-yang, and light-tender golden brocade, patterned twill(紋綾織), silk gauze(羅) and delicate ramie fabric with embroidery and gold stamp(印金) from Han race or late Goryeo were used in this style of costume frequently.
And, high class Yuan ladies' make up was of natural pastel red tone with white powder(粉) and red Yeonji(?脂) when they painted their faces. It was not wild make up of early Mongolian’s, but quiet make up style.
Yuan ladies' fashion was recreated as a fusion style with decisive visual effect, which was due to the intermixture of superior nomadic and superior un-nomadic’s costume details with the satisfaction of high class ladies' tastes in the height of national prosperity.
First, long narrow deel and high Boktak in nomadic style of Mongolian ladies were developed as a ‘heavy grand ceremonial dress’ with accomplished skill of fabric and many jewel stones. The most important material was nascici- brocade with heavy golden thread made by masters from central Asia, and various imported big pearls and jewels as tax. Tastes of Master and merchant from Persia, Uigur, Han-chinese race, another Central asia were reflected in the design of Yuan women’s ceremonial dress.
Second, ‘tender costume of un-nomadic women’- light jacket and long skirt, thin narrow women’s shoes - were worn as daily formal wear of court ladies. It seems that these clothing were affected by the ladie’s costume of south Han tribe and Goryeo-yang, and light-tender golden brocade, patterned twill(紋綾織), silk gauze(羅) and delicate ramie fabric with embroidery and gold stamp(印金) from Han race or late Goryeo were used in this style of costume frequently.
And, high class Yuan ladies' make up was of natural pastel red tone with white powder(粉) and red Yeonji(?脂) when they painted their faces. It was not wild make up of early Mongolian’s, but quiet make up style.
Yuan ladies' fashion was recreated as a fusion style with decisive visual effect, which was due to the intermixture of superior nomadic and superior un-nomadic’s costume details with the satisfaction of high class ladies' tastes in the height of national prosperity.
목차
Ⅰ. 서론
Ⅱ. 시대적 배경
Ⅲ. 원 귀부인의 의복 유행
Ⅳ. 결론
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