이 글은 광종 11년과 의종대의 공복 규정 사이의 시간적 간극을 메워 공복의 정비 과정을 살피보자 한 것이다. 고려는 자색, 비색, 단색 등의 공복 사례나 어대의 사례들이 태조 때부터 확인되지만 신라의 유제가 남아 있는 등 아직 혼란한 상황이어서 구체적인 운영방식 등은 알기 어렵다. 이후 광종 11년에 후주의 제도를 도입하여 일정한 방식으로 정리하여 공복 규정을 정한 것으로 보인다. 이때 공복 규정은 자색, 단색, 비색, 녹색의 4색으로 나뉘고 원윤이라는 官階및 중단경, 도항경, 소주부라는 관직이 그 기준이었다. 하지만 아직 官階와 官職이 동시에 공복 착용 기준으로 적용되어 공복 착용상에 혼란한 상황이 여전하기도 했다. 성종대에 들어 고려의 관제는 대대적으로 변하면서 공복의 기준이었던 기존의 관계, 관직에도 변화가 발생했다. 현종대 장리 공복이 개정되는 가운데 자색, 비색, 녹색의 3색으로 정리되고 단색이 사라진 것을 확인할 수 있는데, 이미 성종대 관제 개편에 따라 향리의 공복만이 아니라 공복제가 자색, 비색, 녹색의 3색 공복제로 개정되었다고 판단된다. 문종 이후 예제를 강조하면 정치, 사회질서의 회복을 도모하여 의종대에 『詳定古今禮』의 편찬으로 집대성되었다. 3색 공복의 구별은 인종대 고려에 온 서긍의 견문을 통해서 확인할 수 있는데, 4품 이상, 상참 6품이상, 9품 이상으로 구별하였다. 이런 구조를 서긍은 고려의 공복제가 송의 것을 모방했기 때문으로 이해하였지만, 고려가 성종대 이래 ‘송제화된 당제’에 따른 관제를 수용한 결과가 공복제에도 반영되었기 때문이었다.
This study aims to investigate the modification of official uniforms of government officials by looking at changes in the system of official uniforms of government officials between the 11<SUP>th</SUP> year of King Gwangjong’s reign (960) and the year of King Uijong’s reign (before and after Year 1160). As there are the cases of government officials wearing official belts and official attires in purple, celadon green and velvet during the years of King Taejo’s reign, it is assumed that government officials of the Goryeo court wore them from the beginning of the Goryeo Dynasty. However, it is difficult to know how exactly it was implemented since the dynasty was still in chaos with the remaining legacies of the Silla Dynasty. But it seems that in the 11<SUP>th</SUP> year of King Gwangjong’s reign, the system of official uniforms was established after adopting the system of the Later Zhou Dynasty and rearranging it in a certain way. Four colors of official uniforms such as purple, velvet, red and celadon green were introduced and worn by government officials according to their ranks in office such as Gwan-gye or titles such as Jungdan-gyeong, Dohang-gyeong and Sojubu. However, as the government structure was overhauled during the reign of King Seongjong, changes were made to the existing public offices and positions. Moreover, under the revised system of official uniforms of government officials during the reign of King Hyeongjong, three colors of official uniforms, namely purple, red and green remained while the velvet color was removed. Therefore, it is assumed that during the new bureaucratic system of King Seongjong, not only did the official uniforms of low-ranking government officials change but also the court attire system of three colors, namely purple, red and green was revised. In the Goryeo Dynasty after the reign of King Munjong, the importance of ancestral rites was emphasized while the social order and recovery were promoted, and during the reign of King Uijong they became codified. The records of differentiating the official uniforms of three colors to indicate government officials above level 4, level 6 and level 9 were found in a story accounted by Xu Jing who visited Goryeo during the reign of King Injong. Though Xu Jing understood such structure of the system as a copy of the system in the Song China, it reflected the political system of the Tang Dynasty customized by the Song.